Being a Go-to Painting Company

June 20th, 2009
Catchlight Painting asked:


Being a “Go-To” Painting Company: The Bull in a Bear Market

Much to my wife’s chagrin, I willingly and somewhat credulously engage with some of the more far-flung segments of popular culture—to wit, more often than not I fall asleep listening to a late-night radio host she charitably refers to as “Alien Man.” I won’t bore you with received conspiracy theories or musings from this or that gassy knoll, but I would like to use one of the outer limit’s more interesting fields of endeavor as a jumping point for this article.

Predictive linguistics is, in a nutshell, the belief that within the unknowable magnitude of collected human chatter we might dig out kernels of future events, most often along larger-scale trend lines such as shifts in political climate. The governing logic at work within this study holds that humans both intuit and shape future happenings through language; in other words and on a smaller, cruder scale: get a group of 30 farmers together and give them a few hours to kill in a room miked for sound and by the end of the day, you’ll probably have painted a decent picture of next year’s harvest through careful notation of repeated phrases and tonal patterns.

So, the chicken or the egg? To a predictive linguist, the answer is “both.”

On that note, we’ve all worn our eyes to the quick–and likely lost a few winks as business owners–reading about the economy these last few months. Whether or not the credit crunch leads to further fiscal deterioration, the language concentration centered around ‘downturn’ is unmistakable, and it’s smart business to bet that a relational turn towards ‘value’ will take on a gathering intensity as Wall Street makes its uneasy peace with Main Street.

Indeed, to the savvy business, this fog of uncertainty represents a very real, tangible opportunity for growth: how might a successful painting company watch its billable hours climb out of the ashes of recession?

By adding…value.

Keep in mind that most residential customers see their painting projects as component parts to the greater aim of ‘home improvement’ or ‘beautification,’ and slap a double nickel on that relationship during times of economic hardship. They’re hiring for quality, finish, aesthetic, to be sure; as fingers tighten around purse strings it’s unavoidable that they’re also hiring with an eye on a quantifiable improvement to their initial investment in the residence—in short, they are hiring to add value!

And as surely as your customers will be hiring to add value$, they’ll also be hiring to add valueZZZ…consider how much proverbial—and sometimes literal!–sleep you save your customer by doing all the little things well, by covering all of their bases where possible. Time is always money, remember, and the surest way to add value across the board is by becoming a ‘go-to’ business, increasing your customer’s bottom line by decreasing his bottom time:



‘Go-to’ businesses hire, train, and employ go-to guys: Encourage your painters to develop and build upon small home repair skills whenever possible. A ‘handy’ painter might well save a customer the trouble of finding and locating an electrician, joint man, plumber, etc.

‘Go-to’ businesses use their network of contacts to provide their customers with solutions: Let’s say that during the walkthrough, your customer mentions they plan on an addition to the west wing at some point over the next six months. A ‘go-to’ business checks its contact list for a general contractor in that area and is happy to save the customer extra legwork by making an introduction at the right time.

‘Go-to’ businesses take the extra step, every step of the way: your painters are onsite to beautify and fortify your customer’s home; to that end, why not ask that your painters bring in empty trashcans or recycling bins on trash day, take in the customer’s mail or the paper as a courtesy, dust a coffee table that needs dusting? A ‘go-to’ business treats its customers’ homes as its own, and it holds its painters to that highest standard, seven days a week.



As the old saying holds, the list might well go on, and on–these are but a few examples of ‘go-to’ business practice. But for the most potent distillation of ‘go-to’ philosophy, take a good, long look at the telephone: a ‘go-to’ business functioning at its highest capacity is constantly challenging itself to be that first call for every one of its customers–at every point of the decision-making process.



Are you a ‘go-to’ business? If not, why not?



Home Improvement 101 - Painting Tips

June 14th, 2009
Build WriteWell asked:


Home Improvement 101 - Painting Tips

How To Paint Home Painting Tips

Color is used to influence how the size of the room feels

The desired Effect

Your Color Choice

Expand space? Use cool, light, or dull colors; minimal contrasts

Shrink space? Include warm, dark, or bright colors; maximum contrasts

Lower ceiling? Try warm colors and dark tones

Raise ceiling? Use cool colors and light tints

Shorten room? Best to use warm or dark colors

Lengthen room? Cool, light, or dull colors; limited contrasts

Hide an undesirable feature? Surrounding color

Tip: Prime Mistake With 5 coats of paint on the wall a person asked his paint supply store why he couldn’t cover the stains on the wall. ” Did you prime” he was asked? “Yes - I used some leftover latex from the garage”. It was explained that latex paint isn’t primer. Primer provides bonding and stain blocking. Paint provides durability and color. Both are needed for a good job. Original “Kiltz” primer dries quickly and has been found to be one of the most stain blockers. Stain Blockers absorb instead of covering up the stain - so be sure the primer is completely dry to prevent bleed through.

Tip: Don’t like the Dust from sanding drywall Mud? Use a drywall wet-sander (Sponge with abrasive on one side) . With a damp sponge - use the coarse side for sanding and the fine side for smoothing. Wood Window painted shut? Try applying the paint to the window and the sash in separate processes. It is recommended to remove the sash when possible. Use a utility knife or sash knife to cut the paint before opening the window.

Tip: Break Time? Place Brush or roller in a plastic bag.

Break Time overnight? Double Bag and place in your refrigerator.

Tip: Painting a large area like a entire home? Sprayer Rentals are available for minimal $.

Tip: Paint Roller extension handle. It extends and is adjustable.

Brushes and Rollers

Selecting the right brushes and rollers is a crucial step in making your paint jobs look better while helping you to do your work more easily and efficiently.

Brushes : So many sizes and styles - How Do I Choose?

:-) Like anything in life knowledge is they key. If you are like myself this might seem like too much information. However - It is the little things that make the work go smoothly. Much of what has been learned here has been learned the hard way. I will try to share with you what has been learned from my mistakes along with tips from painters and the help of Sherwin-williams.

A paint brush is an ideal choice when painting trim, corners and small areas. Also, a specialty paint brush should be used for projects like painting furniture, decks and railings.

When selecting a brush, you will want to consider the following :

Bristle Type -

Nylon and polyester bristle: These synthetic materials are designed to hold their shape with todays popular latex paints. A good quality nylon and polyester blended brush is the best choice for all latex paints and coatings. Many painters prefer a synthetic brush for oil coatings as well.

Natural China bristle:High-quality natural China bristle brushes have qualities that control oil-based coatings for better flow and leveling for the smoothest finish. A natural China bristle brush is the best choice for oil-based paints, stains and varnishes

Brush Styles:

Angle sash: Bristles are precisely trimmed at an angle that allows painters to hold the brush more comfortably while painting trim and corners. Brush ends are rounded for a smooth , gradual paint stroke.

Trim:

Trim brushes have a straight cut-line and are also used for painting trim and corners. They can also be used for larger areas. Some painters prefer a straight edge versus an angled cut. Trim brushes also have rounded ends.

Wall: A wall brush is a larger brush with a straight cut-line. It is better used for larger areas like walls or side paneling. A wall brush has square ends.

Brush Size : Personal preference is always a factor in choosing a brush width, but a good rule of thumb is For small spaces, tight trim areas, touch-ups and detail work 2 1/2 to 3 inches: For any trim and corner work 4 to 5 inches: For larger areas like walls or side paneling a roller may come in handy or use a good Brush Quality.

You made it this far! You are incredible! Thanks for reading - really hope this helps.

Better brushes bring better results.

High Production Brushes: These brushes are recommended for painters looking for superior paint pick-up and release. High Production brushes deliver great results in less time. They pick-up and release more than 25 percent more paint than any other brush on the market. High Production brushes are available in a nylon/polyester blend for latex coatings and in a white China/polyester blend for oil-based coatings.

Nylon/Polyester and 100% Nylon Brushes:

A specific blend of nylon and polyester filaments make this brush a fine finishing tool that is very durable and easy to clean. The white nylon tips are precisely flagged and tapered for a sharp cut-line. These characteristics have made this line the most popular choice for latex paints for the past 15 years. Although nylon is a soft material, it is also the strongest and most expensive material in a paint brush. 100 percent nylon brushes offer extreme durability, even when used on rough or abrasive surfaces. 100 percent nylon brushes are finished using several hand-trimming steps to create a superior cut-in paint brush.

Black and White China Bristle Brushes:

By nature, Black China bristle is stronger and thicker coarse hair, which makes it the perfect bristle to use with oil-based paints and epoxies. The highest quality Black China bristles available are used in the Contractor Series line. White China bristle, by contrast, is soft and thin. A white China bristle brush is the perfect tool for stain, varnishes, polyurethanes and clear coatings. It lays these topcoats on with a glass-smooth finish. White China bristle brushes are suitable for oil-based paints if a softer flex tool is desired.

Black China / Ox Hair Blend Brushes: Ox hair is extremely fine and soft, creating an exceptional tool for fine finish work.

Roller Covers: Rollers help you paint large, flat surfaces in much less time than a brush. They are also excellent for use on all walls, stucco, concrete or any other flat surface.

Here are some options to consider when purchasing a roller cover:

Roller Cover Materials:

Nylon/polyester:

Synthetic roller covers are ideal for applying latex paints, They resist matting and hold their shape for a smooth finish.

Natural fiber covers: Roller covers that are made from natural fiber include mohair and lambs wool. They are ideal for oil-based coatings.

Blended covers: Roller covers made from a blend of natural and synthetic fibers are excellent multipurpose covers and can be used with all paints.

Roller Length: Standard roller length is nine inches.

For smaller areas, a four-inch or seven-inch roller cover. Larger area - walls & floors, 14-inch & 18-inch rollers may increase productivity.

Pile Depth : Roller covers vary in nap length.

The nap is determined by the SuRfaCe TeXtUrE to be painted.

1/4-inch, 3/16-inch: For very smooth surfaces like metal doors and plaster. 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch: For smooth and semi-smooth surfaces like drywall. 3/4-inch: For semi-rough surfaces like wood or a textured ceiling. 1-inch, 1 1/4-inch: For rough surfaces like stucco or a heavily textured ceiling. 1 1/2-inch: For extremely rough surfaces like concrete block.

Roller Quality As with brushes, the initial extra investment in higher quality rollers and covers will pay off in the final look and ease of application. Lesser quality roller covers may leave streaks or nap fibers on the painted surface.

Polyester Knit: Specially formulated for today is latex coatings. The highly crimped fibers offer the best protection against matting. Soft Woven: Rivals polyester knit in popularity. Recommended for both latex and oil coatings, they do a fine job with gloss and semi-glass coatings. Wool/Polyester Knit: Fifty percent of the roller cover fiber is natural wool, which allows for greater paint pick up and delivery. Fifty percent is polyester, which helps the roller keep its shape during prolonged use. The blend results in an excellent balance of productivity and low matting. Merino Sheepskin: Pick up and release more paint than any other roller cover. Many painters use Merino Sheepskin exclusively for any type of coating, claiming it lasts a long time with proper care. Mohair: Features a blend of soft natural angora mohair with synthetic fibers to produce the smoothest finish possible with a roller cover. Recommended for use with gloss and high gloss coatings. Brushes & Rollers Portions of above material was edited material from Paint Supplier http://www.sherwin-williams.com/

Tip: Painting Straight Lines is one of the hardest things to master. A Painting Edger may be used. When this edger is used two problems often occur. Bumps of Ceiling Texture are hit making a crooked line or paint gets on the edge of the roller. To prevent both of these problems place a painters metal shield or a straight trowel with tape over the edge against the ceiling. Your roller now rolls freely and if paint was on the roller it will go onto your trowel instead of the ceiling! (Stiff Paper or thin cardboard may substitute the trowel)

Tip 2: Using tape instead of the above method. Place the tape down the wall one eighth of an inch. When the tape is removed it will look like a caulk line and will not be noticed! If the paint is on the ceiling however It stands out! Remember to remove the tape immediately. Painter Friendly Tape is very deceitful. Seven Day tape should really stay on Seven minutes. One day is the max for any tape.

There are periods when to dare, is the highest wisdom. William Ellery Channing

By all means, do not say, If I can; Say, I will. Abraham Lincoln

You may wear out, but never give up.

If there are formatting

problems here

and there

we apologize. :-)

We will do our best to have it edited and looking nice soon.

Your patience is appreciated as this information has been updated from other locations and pictures were deleted in the process ,etc. This Note of apology is especially to writers (Well, my brother anyway will have something to say :-) ! ) about my editing errors.

The purpose is to prove a point. It may be silly and over kill - yet I want to be clear for readers.

Thank You Again For Your Attention!

Home Improvement 101 - Painting Tips



Encaustic Painting

May 27th, 2009
Ariela Steif asked:


History

Encaustic is considered one of the most ancient painting mediums in the world. The word “encaustic” comes from the Greek encaustikos, “to burn in,” referring to the process of fusing the layers of paint together. The oldest surviving use is the famous Fayum portraits painted on tombs from Roman Egypt around 100-350 A.D.  After disappearing for much of history, it was revived in the 1950s by Jasper Johns, who is often considered the father of contemporary encaustic painting. He used the medium most famously in his Flags and Target paintings.

Materials and Tools

Encaustic paint is usually made from beeswax, damar resin, and pigment. The beeswax has a relatively low melting point, approximately 150F, and is strained multiple times to remove impurities.  Because of this low melting point, damar resin is added, which serves both to raise the melting point to about 165F and to act as a hardening agent, so the encaustic has a slightly enamel finish when cool.  

Beeswax, being both a sealant and a preservative, allows for various materials such as paper to be collaged into the work.  As long as the paper is completely covered by the paint it will not degrade because the wax seals it off from oxygen.

There are several tools needed: first is a heat source. This can be as cheap as a hot plate or pancake griddle, or fancy ones can be bought from R&F Paints. Most artists keep the griddle temperature anywhere between 180F and 230F. The paint itself can be bought readymade (it can also be made from scratch, although that is beyond the scope of this article) and comes in blocks.  These are melted down on the griddle in anything metal - old soup cans, muffin tins, etc. New colors can be made by mixing paints together when molten; they don’t tend to mix on your ground because the paint begins to harden as soon as it is taken away from the heat source. Colors can also be extended or become more translucent by adding encaustic medium. Medium is just the beeswax and resin without any pigment; it is completely clear in its molten state. 

Encaustic is compatible with a few other mediums: oil paint, pigment sticks, and oil pastels can be added to the painting in addition to the encaustic. Anything plastic or water-based, like acrylics or watercolors, is not compatible. 

There are also particulars to the ground used. The support must be both rigid and absorbent. If it is not rigid (like canvas stretched over stretcher bars) the painting may crack, usually because of the weight of the wax in the middle of the canvas.  If it isn’t absorbent enough the encaustic might later begin to peel away from the ground. For this reason, acrylic gesso and oil primer also cannot be used. Some possibilities for supports and grounds: wood panels (luan, birch, plywood), claybord, untempered masonite, hardboard primed with Holy Grail, or raw canvas stretched over board or wood panel.

The final major tool that is needed is something to reheat and bind every layer to the one beneath it. Proper fusion is necessary so that the layers of paint do not separate over time, and so that air bubbles do not form between them, which can lead to chipping. Many different tools will achieve this: tacking irons, propane or butane torches, heat guns, etc. Heat guns are probably the safest and one of the easier tools to use because they don’t have an open flame, they often come with multiple temperature settings, and the stream of hot air can be used to blow the paint in various directions. The precise temperature and distance that the tool is held from the surface of the paint can vary and require experimentation. Different temperatures and distances yield different results.  Encaustic cools in seconds, but fusing tool can be used to reheat and rework the painting at any time - even years later.

The paint can be manipulated with anything you can find: palette knives, dental tools, even fingers. Brushes should be natural hair bristles; most artists use one brush per color and keep them lying on the griddle so they stay warm. Encaustic is conducive to heavy layering, so paint can be added and scraped back: it is both a positive and a negative process. 

Safety

Encaustic should never be heated so high that it smokes, which means that it is giving off toxic fumes. Depending on the griddle or hotplate being used, the paint usually doesn’t start to smoke until 250F. Below this point, encaustic does have a unique scent. To most people the aroma is slightly sweet, because of the beeswax, but some find that it causes headaches, nausea, dizziness, breathing difficulties and other respiratory problems, although it is not toxic. Your studio should always be well ventilated with exhaust fans or a ventilation hood. 

The flash point of encaustic (the temperature at which the vapor directly above the paint ignites) is 385F. Obviously, the paint should never be heated this high. 

Water should never come into contact with the molten wax because it can explode. 

As oil paint is compatible with encaustic, flammable liquids like turpentine will probably be involved. These chemicals should always be kept far away from heat sources.  The amount of oil paint used should also be taken into consideration. Encaustic “hardens,” and oil paint “cures,” thus there should not be equal amounts of the two materials or the finished painting will not harden or cure. As long as there is more encaustic than there is oil paint, the painting will dry fine. 

Finally, there are a series of safety precautions associated with dry pigments, which is only used when making your own encaustic paint.

Finished Paintings

Once the painting is considered finished and has cooled, there is nothing more that needs to be done - varnish or something similar is not necessary. The painting can be buffed with a paper towel or a soft cloth, which removes bloom (any impurities in the paint that have risen to the surface during the hardening process), dust, dullness, and restores the surface to a glossy finish. The hardening process will actually continue for a long time and it may need to be buffed every so often to remove any bloom that develops at a later time.

The paint is stable in temperatures ranging from approximately 40F-110F. In cold temperatures it will shrink slightly and if it is very cold it may *****. In high temperatures the paint might soften but there should not be any lasting damage.  Paintings should be hung out of direct sunlight.

 



Oil Painting for Beginners - How to Get Started in Oil Painting

May 25th, 2009
Ralph Serpe asked:


One of the more frequently asked questions from beginners in oil painting is: How do I get Started? To get started in oil painting is relatively easy. There are some basic supplies that you will need and some basic guidelines to follow. This article will discuss how beginners can get started with oil painting. This article will not teach you how to become a good painter however. In fact, no one can make you a good painter. You can only be taught certain things and it is up to you to take what you have learned and apply it.

Many beginners who are new to the oil painting medium, generally have the same questions. So let’s cover those questions now so that you can begin your painting journey right away.

Oil Painting Supplies

The first thing you will need to do is purchase a few supplies. You need not spend a ton of money on expensive oil painting supplies. Start with the basics as you are only a beginner right now. The goal at this point is to get used to working with your support, brushes, paints and other materials. So expensive supplies will be wasted during this stage.

Supports

You are going to need a support to paint on. There are a number of different supports that can handle oil paint, but for now, start with canvas. Many beginners often ask if a canvas needs any special coating or priming for oil paint. The short answer is yes, but you need not worry about that either. Any local art supply store or online art supply store will have canvases that are already primed and ready to be used.

Oil Paint

Next, you are going to need paint. You do not need an expensive brand of paint. That would again be a waste for beginners. There are less expensive, good quality paints on the market that will work beautifully for your painting needs. Here are a few oil paint brands to test out: WINSOR & NEWTON Winton Oil Colours, GRUMBACHER Academy Oils and DALER-ROWNEY Georgian Oil Colours.

For those of you who may be concerned about the potential hazards associated with oil paints, have no fear. Introducing water miscible oil paints! These paints are fantastic. They can be thinned with water as opposed to using dangerous solvents like turpentine. Here are two brands to try out if you are interested: GRUMBACHER Max Water Miscible Oil Colors and WINSOR & NEWTON Artisan Water Mixable Oil Colours.

Oil Painting Brushes

Having good quality brushes is important. While a good quality brush will not make you a better painter, a cheap brush will only wind up frustrating you. When you use cheap brushes you will see why. Cheap brushes have a tendency to shed hairs that get stuck in the oil paint, which is extremely annoying. Good quality brushes should have stiff hairs and snap back into place when you run your fingers through them. They should be well crafted and sturdy.

You do not need that many brushes for oil painting. I personally only use two types of oil painting brushes: flats and filberts of various sizes. I do have a few rounds and a fan brush on hand, but I almost never use them. I would also recommend that you use hogs hair brushes as opposed to the softer synthetic hair brushes. The synthetic brushes are just too flimsy to handle the oil painting medium in my opinion.

Cleaning your brushes is important, so don’t be careless in this area, especially if you are working with high quality brushes. Many artists recommend turpentine for cleaning brushes, but I simply cannot bring myself to use this stuff. I use a much safer brush cleaning product called “The Masters” Brush Cleaner and Preserver.

I clean my brushes right after a painting session with this product and it works wonderfully. It may take some time to really get your brushes clean, but it is worth the effort. If the brush cleaner does not remove all of the paint, then I use a bit of odorless mineral spirits. I find this a much better alternative to turpentine.

Oil Painting Mediums

What about mediums? Do you need to mix the oil paint with anything or can you use it straight out of the tube? This is another common question amongst beginners. The answer? You do not need mediums to paint with. They are not a requirement, but I find them to be quite helpful.

Most oil paints that I have worked with are simply too stiff right out of the tube for my particular style of painting. Mediums will help dilute the oil paint and make the paint flow better, which means you will be using less paint. Using less paint, means you will save money.

There are many different kinds of mediums that are used for different reasons, like speeding up the drying time of paint, improving gloss, etc. Do not be overly concerned with mediums right now.

I like to start my painting using thinned down acrylic paint. I first tone my entire canvas with a neutral color. I then draw in my composition using different values of the same color. I let this initial drawing dry over night. I then apply the oil paint using the fat over lean oil painting method.

Lighting

This is a very important part of oil painting. Without proper lighting, you will not be able to accurately see your colors. The best kind of lighting is natural sunlight, so if you have the opportunity to paint in a well lit room or outdoors, that would be ideal. Of course not everyone is blessed with this type of situation, so the next best thing is to use lighting that mimics natural sunlight.

This type of lighting is referred to as “full spectrum lighting”. There are number of different full spectrum lighting products available. Just do a search on google for “full spectrum lighting” and you will find a number of websites on the topic.

Safety

Oil painting for beginners can be hazardous if you are not careful, so it is important to take the necessary precautions. Make sure you work in an area that has good ventilation and airflow. Wear disposable latex gloves while painting. Read all manufacturer warning labels carefully.

Some Final Words

As you sit down to start your first painting, remember that you are just a beginner. Your main goal right now is to have fun and get used to working with your oil painting materials. Do not be overly judgmental about your own work. If you do so, you will only wind up getting frustrated. Your first, second, third or even tenth painting may not turn out the way you wanted it to. This is completely normal so do not get discouraged. Oil painting is a difficult medium to master. It takes perseverance so hang in there. I wish you all the best! God Bless.